Cabbage tourism in Trás-os-Montes

On the first morning after our arrival in Negrões, the doutora returned from a quick shopping run to Montalegre and exclaimed that she was very frustrated. Not, alas, the kind of frustration that promised a mutually satisfying resolution of the difficulty. The horror, the horror, she exclaimed as she described all the beautiful cabbages she had seen on the trip and her great disgust at discovering that none of these tasty varieties were to be had at the market she found.

You would not believe how magnificent they were! And everywhere! she exclaimed as she confessed to felonious thoughts of first-degree cabbage theft, thwarted by the watchful eye of an old man with a particularly delicious patch of galegas and pencas. I knew she meant what she said, thinking back on our week in Minho and the likelihood that the local correio still had wanted posters up after her binge making caldo verde there.

Couves galegas to tempt passersby

There is an amazing variety of cabbages in Portugal, used in many varied and specific ways, all very confusing for the newcomer. Rochelle Ramos, a native of the US Pacific Northwest now living in Portugal's Ribatejo region, wrote a nice introduction to Portuguese cabbage and greens cookery which is a good place to start getting a grip on these delicious greens. But the grelos, couve-galega, couve-lombarda &alia she discusses are just a quick flash of light reflected from this jeweled trove of national culinary treasure.

The jewels in the crown: Couve Penca de Chaves

Walk into a local hardware store in Montalegre or Chaves, and you'll find packets of seed for at least eight or nine varieties, many of them local vegetables that I have not seen offered in Alentejo. And when you think you've seen them all, the next shop will have another kind you haven't seen before.

There will be a few newcomers in next year's garden.

Ramos describes cabbage and other greens as the epitome of peasant fare in Portugal, but for those with a taste for rich, healthy flavors and no pretense, they are a good main course on any plate.

A big plate of turnip greens dressed in olive oil and vinager with a mixed rice featuring alheira de Montalegre,
feijão frade, tomato and spices of Spain and India, all accompanied by a good local white wine.

Good, simple food, solid as the granite from which most of the regional houses and barns are built. Gourmet fare for Everyman.

Home between the cabbage patches in Negrões, with the ancient reservoir behind

A cabbage patch with a view in Negrões